Years ago I bought a Squier Affinity Strat neck from the Goodwill Outlet store, and I'm pretty sure I spent under $1 for it. The profile is a bit slim, but it's not uncomfortable, and I was impressed with the wood Squier used for the Affinity series. Looking at Squiers current Affinity series Telecaster you get a really nice deal, they even offer a butterscotch blackguard! On the used market these things are dirt cheap, and I've seen a few floating around, but there's something off about them. Upon further research the bodies and necks are thinner, and they're 21 frets instead of 22. While these aren't deal breakers, again I'm looking for the best twang for my buck here, so we'll sit the Affinity on the sidelines for now and keep looking. There are the Classic Vibes, the Vintage Modifieds and all kind of really great options, but these all come with really great option prices, so I'll keep looking.
Tuesday, June 9, 2026
Finding the Best Twang for My Buck!
Years ago I bought a Squier Affinity Strat neck from the Goodwill Outlet store, and I'm pretty sure I spent under $1 for it. The profile is a bit slim, but it's not uncomfortable, and I was impressed with the wood Squier used for the Affinity series. Looking at Squiers current Affinity series Telecaster you get a really nice deal, they even offer a butterscotch blackguard! On the used market these things are dirt cheap, and I've seen a few floating around, but there's something off about them. Upon further research the bodies and necks are thinner, and they're 21 frets instead of 22. While these aren't deal breakers, again I'm looking for the best twang for my buck here, so we'll sit the Affinity on the sidelines for now and keep looking. There are the Classic Vibes, the Vintage Modifieds and all kind of really great options, but these all come with really great option prices, so I'll keep looking.
Wednesday, May 20, 2026
Humbling Hubris Through Troubleshooting
Far be it from me to think I'm flawless, in fact I'm well aware that I'm faulty. The only problem is while one side of me is faulty, the other side is very much Basil Fawlty. I generally take quite a while to warm up to the idea that I actually know what I'm doing in any given field, however sometimes when things go wrong I dare to blame everything but myself. When it comes to guitar pedal circuits I'm still a newbie, even after six years and 160 builds, but when things go wrong, even though nothing seems to be wrong, well that's when my hubris tank runneth over.
Since this year's weather has been confused I've had very little chance to get outside and solder any of the pedal kits I've put together for the 2026 season. In the meantime I figured a few short bursts of soldering inside couldn't do my brain any damage. Could it? Well, perhaps it does, as I've found even the simplest of troubleshooting tasks to feel far beyond my grasp of comprehension. Firstly I set my sights on the Univox Uni-comp, as it was a super simple circuit, and if there was a will, there was a way. Sadly it took me entirely too long faffing about with AI trying to get it to work. In the end it works, but I have no clue if it's anywhere near what it should sound like.
After that I set my sights on a slightly modified Lovepedal JTM clone I had built, in hopes of creating an always on bluesy overdrive. I subbed in a 2N3904 for the transistor, two 1N60P clipping diodes, and I added a volume control. It doesn't really need a volume control, because at max it's only unity, but it's working now. It's a decent little overdrive, not to say the JTM wasn't already. I then looked into my EQD Zoar clone, which I was super excited about because they sound amazing. When mine was initially finished, however, it was dead as the Dodo. The main issue was the JFET input. I didn't have any suitable JFETs until recently, so I slapped one into the socket and was met with buzzy, farty goodness! Well, that's a start! A little twist of the trimpot and voila! It came to life and sounded as amazing as I had always hoped. This has been sitting in my Needs Troubleshooting box for two years, and all it took was two seconds to fix it. *face palm*
What may be worse is my Zendrive clone. It worked initially, but I was flustered because I thought the Voice control was bad. I downloaded schematics and went through the comments of the layout, finding more people saying the same thing. After hours of frustrated troubleshooting, reflowing every solder joint, and trying almost everything, without having tested the circuit, I decided I should just wire it up and test it. Well I'll be an idiot, it wasn't the Voice control, it was the Tone control! Ok, so what's wrong with the Tone control? More frustrating troubleshooting later and... I used a 330pf instead of a 3.3nf. Once I swapped that out, it works perfectly. THANK GOODNESS because Zendrives are GREAT!
Other circuits like both my 9v and my 18v Katana Boosts just needed biasing. My Eric Johnson Fuzz Face has a very high pitch oscillation squeal to it, but that may be because it needs a 9v battery, instead of the PSU I normally use, so I left it as it. Then my Colorsound Power Boost, I had written down the bass control didn't work, but apparently it does now? *shrug* I still have so many circuits left to go, like my Boss Blues Driver clone, which is apparently another notoriously finicky circuit. Again, I feel if there is a will, there is a way. Depending on how finicky the circuit wants to be, that may just be a way straight into the trash bin. Let's hope the outcome is a bit brighter side than that though.
Tuesday, May 5, 2026
NE555 Projects on 5/5
Monday, May 4, 2026
Using Archaic Technology!
Monday, April 6, 2026
Univox Uni‑Comp Vero Nightmare Solved!
It's been sitting in my needs troubleshooting box for over two years, and finally I decided to stare the dragon straight in its eyes and figure out what exactly was going on, or in this case not going on. Many years ago I had built a Really Cheap Compressor and I liked how cheap and effective it was, so when I saw the Univox Uni-comp I decided this would be a piece of cake! Little did I know, initially, it was more like a pile of crap. After this little circuit failed to work at all I went to the search engines and found that, what looks like a very simple circuit on paper, seems to be notorious for not being able to get it right. There are multiple schematics and layouts that all differ, with very poor success rates from what I'm reading as well. I'm not a very smart man, but I am tenacious!
| The original layout I used |
With legends being passed down from generation to generation that this circuit is indeed viable, I decided to sit down and compare all the schematics and layouts I could find. I made 100% sure that mine was exactly like the layout I used (above), and it was. From there I started tracing things back and forth between all of the layouts and schematics, and I noticed a few things. On the layout I used, the 3.3M is going through a jumper to pin 3, as where all the others went to pin 2. I desoldered the jumper at pin 3, stuffed it through the cut trace beside pin 2, and soldered it where I attached the socket beneath. Then I traced both 1M resistors at pin 3 and realized neither went to ground. The lower of the two went precisely where it was meant to go, so the upper required me to move the top leg down one space, which now gave me the correct voltages on the LM741. I also noticed the LED anode and it's components weren't isolated, so I made a cut to do that.
Once those changes were done, I finally had audio, but just barely. The LED was also behaving like it was possessed. Sometimes stuck on, sometimes refusing to light at all, making me think I’d cooked it. Between the weak output and the LED acting like a mood ring, I was stumped. I checked every schematic and layout again, and everything looked right. That’s when I turned to AI (big ups to Copilot!). I showed it the layout, explained the fixes I’d already made, and after some thinking it told me the LDR needed to connect to Q1’s collector. I scoffed. In none of the schematics or layouts does the LDR go to the collector of Q1. In mocking robot voice: “Error, error, cannot compute.” But the AI was persistent. It suggested disconnecting the LED and LDR entirely to see if the volume came back. Wouldn’t you know it, it did! Not only that, but with the Comp and Level maxed, the thing actually turned into a surprisingly cool little overdrive. That’s a project for another day, but it proved the sidechain was the culprit.
I questioned my use of an MPSA05 instead of an 06, and AI assured me the only thing that needs to happen is the LDR needed to connect to Q1's collector. Fine, we'll try it your way. *eye roll* Well, yet again I was wrong. Now I'm not saying it's perfect, but it actually works. The LED flickers into the LDR, it compresses, but it is gritty. Could this be the 1N4148s? Who knows. The reality is this little circuit now works, again probably not perfectly. What I had written off over two years ago now actually works. So if you're one of the people who had issues with the Univox Uni-comp, here are the changes to make to the layout above to get you started.
- Add a cut at E12 to isolate the LED and it's components
- Move the Jumper from I6 to H6, connecting to Pin 2
- Move the 1M top leg from D4 to E4, giving the opamp proper voltages
- Connect the top leg of the LDR to C11, connecting to Q1's collector
Thursday, November 27, 2025
The Epiphone 58 Korina Flying V Encounter
In 2023 I came across a youtube video where Joe Bonamassa explains the history behind his 1958 Gibson korina flying v, aka Amos. The guitar originally shipped from Gibson to Arthur's Music in Indianapolis, thus Joe named it after the owner of the music store, Amos Arthur. Myself being from Indiana, and having been to Arthur's Music, I felt a sense of Hoosier pride, and an intangible bond between myself and the 58 korina flying v, in general, was formed. I already have my Greeny clone, I have my Peavey JF-1 to cover all of my semi-hollow blues, all that was missing would be a 58 korina flying v to round out the blues collection.
I started researching my options, but a lot of them aren't anywhere near my budget. Obviously a genuine 1958 Gibson would cost far more than I could ever afford, and a modern Gibson copy is five figures. The cheaper alternatives were plentiful, but for me accuracy is an issue. Dillion made really nice copies that are inexpensive, but they're hard to find, and the neck is maple instead of korina. Epiphone has made quite a few different attempts at copying the 58 korina flying v, but they too seem to be a pig in a poke. The first run from 1998-2013 all supposedly have mahogany necks instead of korina, and the neck heel is a Les Paul style instead of a 58 flying v. In 2017 Epiphone tried again, this time with slightly more accurate specs, and while they're affordable things still didn't seem 100% accurate. In 2018 Joe Bonamassa himself offered a copy of Amos as his annual limited edition Epiphone, it being the most accurate of all, yet they've become a collector's item often with a price tag to match. The Inspired by Gibson series recently surfaced, which are as accurate as Epiphone as ever made them, apart from Amos, and they also come with a price tag to match.
As I do when I'm looking for a guitar, I turned to my brother, as he sees more used guitars in a day than most people. I told him what I was looking for and asked him to keep an eye out, which he did. While I was still researching I saw two 98s sell for $500 each on local FB market place, which set up my budget scale. Even with a supposed mahogany neck I wouldn't scoff at one of the 98-13 korina v guitars for about $500. If one of the Amos or Inspired by series ever showed up below $800 I wouldn't pass it up. If the 2017 to ?? series ever showed up for $600ish I would prefer it over the 98-13, simply for it's slightly more accurate build.
After a few years of waiting, the day finally came when my brother told me he wanted to show me his new guitar. As he walked to the door I saw the unmistakable flying v shaped case with a gold Epiphone emblazoned upon it. But what was actually inside? When I opened the case I was gobsmacked. It was an 04 Epiphone in really good shape. Oddly enough, even though they made them from 98-13, I had never touched one of these before, well maybe to move it out of my way of another guitar, but I never purposely sat down with a 58 style flying v to see what it felt like. Immediately I noticed how light it was and comfortable it was to sit with. The neck was chunky, which I love, and it's maple, instead of mahogany (I still wish it was korina). It has a warm tone, it's fairly resonant, sustain is decent, and it plays ok. When I plugged it in I was surprised by the Epiphone pickups. They're not great, but they're not the worst. They try to do a thing that other pickups do better, but their efforts aren't completely in vain.
Overall I'm impressed with what this guitar brings to the table. Being completely honest my goal is to have a 58 style korina flying v that I can take up to Arthur's Music and let her sit beside their Epiphone Amos and soak up all the mojo that guitar and the store have to offer. I really want accuracy in the one I will eventually own. I want the black pickguard, which this one has white, and I want Kluson style tuners, which this has Grovers, and I want the accurate neck heel, which this is an LP style. After playing this guitar I feel the neck heel isn't a bad thing, it's just my personal preference to want the accurate one. I did notice this was made in the Saein factory which most 04s I see are from the Unsung factory.
While I enjoy this guitar, something in my guts still steer me toward a 2017 or newer. Don't get me wrong, this 04 is an amazing little guitar for what it is! If you want the look and vibe of the 58, on a budget, this is a 100% all day buy. I am super happy that I was given the chance to try it out because now I know what to expect and what I truly need from the 58 korina flying v I will eventually own. Who knows maybe down the road I'll have both this 04 and one of the more accurate ones. For now though, I'll weigh my options as I continue to guitarsit this one for my brother.
Monday, October 13, 2025
My Lament: I Wasted My Time, Until Time Wasted Me
Sunday, September 14, 2025
A Tale of Two Katana Boosts
In my previous Katana build I simply took out the parts for the charge pump, as I didn't currently have them in stock. I figured in the worst case scenario I could use an 18v power supply to get it where it needed to be. When I plugged everything in, I had one JFET that refused to work, but once it was swapped out I had a really nice two-stage boost. I still don't think it's on par with the genuine article, but it was a fun project. That being said, I still wanted to build one based strictly on the layout, so I ordered the parts and I set everything up.
While cutting the board it cracked across the entire top strip, so it looks a bit messy. There weren't too many parts affected, and they ended up working out just fine, thankfully. I did swap out the 2N5484s for J113s, because that's all I had. The one thing I found strange is the oddball JFETs I used in the 9v version didn't need biasing, they were already decently biased from the start. I did boost Q1 and Q2 to my liking, but with this second version it seems as if the JFETs knew they were supposed to be fed 18v from the charge pump, and required quite a bit of patience to bias properly. I like JFET circuits, but sometimes biasing can be a real pain in the ass.
Anyway, once they were biased I now have an 18v Katana clone. Does this one sound like the genuine article? *shrug* It sounds as close as I can get. I'm not running these through an expensive rig to test their full fidelity. I'm simply running them through a combo amp that farts out if pushed beyond 3 on the volume, just to make sure the circuits and their controls work properly. I do plan on buying two push/pull B250k pots for both the 9v and 18v versions, to give them a little more authenticity.
Being September, build season 2025 is coming to a close. I'm glad I didn't build as many circuits this year as I did in 2023 or 2024. I still have a handful of projects that need a parts order, so I know I'll have a few builds for next year. I hope the down shift in building continues in 2026, so I just build what I have, and maybe a few extras if something should pop up, but not going crazy like I did the previous two years. I keep saying this, and it never stops being true, but I need to focus on turning these circuits into actual pedals. Housings, inputs/outputs jacks, power input jacks, knobs, foot switches; all the things that make a circuit an actual pedal. I need to make all of my builds functional pedals. Then, that's when I get to use them!